Bouillon a Go-Go
I stuff myself at four Parisian Belle Époque restaurants
In the mid- to late 1800s the first restaurants in Paris were born. Much like the large department stores that were coming into fashion at the time, bouillons were large spaces where hundreds of the Parisian bourgeoise could order a meal.
These bouillon employed a unique system of service: One was handed a menu card showing all food and drink options upon entering. A server would check off the customer’s choices and present the card to the kitchen. The card followed the meal back to the table, and was used to pay the cashier.
This concept of organization, along with highly decorated surroundings (in the Art Nouveau style), quality food, moderate prices, and cleanliness, was completely new. And much like their department store counterparts, they were wildly popular. By 1893 there were 400 bouillons in Paris alone.
By the 1920s, these Belle Époque establishments were considered passé, and the great brasseries took their place. Most bouillon closed, but the few that were mercifully saved are experiencing a resurgence in popularity.
As a francophile, a foodie, and an armchair historian I’ve always been fascinated by any authentic holdout of Parisian gastronomy, so on our trip this past December I decided to eschew the cafés … and my favorite crepe stand … and experience four of these remaining institutions. I offer these reviews to anyone heading to Paris looking for a deeper dive into food and history.
Bouillon Chartier
This is the only bouillon to still carry the name of its original 1905 founders, Frédéric and Camille Chartier. As I walked up to the entrance at 2:00 in the afternoon a group of French businessmen were walking out groaning, which I took as a good sign. Sadly however, the meat-heavy menu was the least interesting of all four bouillon I tried, though the prices were most reasonable. (I don’t understand spaghetti on any menu in France, here there are two options.) I had the Oeuf Mayonaise (7.5€) and Duck Confit (13€). Dependable fare.
Getting there: 59 Boulevard de Montparnasse. (6th). Metro line 4 to Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. Web: bouillon-chartier.com
Le Bouillon Julien
Located just steps from Porte Saint-Denis, Julien was established in 1905 and still operates under the original motto “Here everything is beautiful, good, and cheap”. The exuberant Art Nouveau interior is original! I found the menu options to be authentic and quite varied. Points for offering Tête de Veau and Tripe for the adventurous. You can’t really go wrong with the Brandade (12€) or the Terrine de Canard (10€), both were delicious. I highly recommend a visit for a quick lunch and photo op!
Getting there: 16 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis. (10th). Metro line 4 to Strasbourg-Saint Denis. Web: bouillon-julien.com
Le Bouillon Racine
Le Bouillon Racine is a charmingly decorated and beautifully cavernous two story space with an equally large bar next door (le Bar du Bouillon). The menu is impressive, offering a prix fixe lunch menu for 19.5€, and a three course dinner option Menu1900 at 44€. I had the Escargot (14€) and the Lamb Parmentier with thyme (26€). Both were quite good!
Prices were a little higher, with the average main at 30€. Reservations are recommened for dinner.
Getting there: 3 rue Racine. (6th). Metro line 4 to Odéon.
Web: bouillonracine.fr
Brasserie Vagenende
My favorite! Created in 1904 in a former 19th century patisserie, Vagenende (formerly Le Bouillon Chartier Odéon) offers the most sophisticated range of menu options. It’s decidedly upscale, but maintains the bouillon vibe, and is moderately priced. I highly recommend dining here …. more than once if possible! While there, four Parisians at the table next to me were going all out: Champagne, Oysters and Bone Marrow for starters. Then Sweetbreads, Sole Menuière, Duck … it went on and on (check out their fabulous menu here). That’s the vibe at Vagnende: celebratory! I had the Braised Leeks (9.5€, divinely subtle), Steak Tartare (24.5€), and finished with Vagenede’s house made Chocolate Mousse (13€).
I’ll definitely be coming back for my own celebratory meal with friends.
Reservation is recommended, though I walked right in for a late lunch.
Getting there: 142 Boulevard Saint Germain. (6th). Metro line 4 to Odéon.
Web: en.vagenende.com
A note of appreciation: François-Régis Gaudry has accomplished the seemingly impossible: Organizing and presenting a 400 page compendium of Parisian gastronomy: Let’s Eat Paris. Cheers to him and the dozens of contributors, chefs, historians, and illustrators who made the book happen. Our bouillon adventure wouldn’t have been as complete without his book.
This is such a well-curated exploration of Parisian dining history. What stands out is how you matched each bouillon's personality to the experience, rather than just listing dishes. The detail about the original menu card system being inspired by department store efficiency is fascinatng, it shows how social dining shifted from elite salons to accessible public spaces. I've always wanted to try Vagenende after hearing the buzz, andyour oyster table neighbors sealed the deal.